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It’s that time of
year again when the mercury gets long and the skirts get short.
As the sun makes up for this year’s dreary spring, the
streets shimmer in the fierce heat and humidity, and the only
oasis is the corner store’s A/C. Unfortunately (or fortunately,
depending on your opinion) not all of us have the luxury of
hitting up the Hamptons. Luckily there is one place where
the average prole can get his beach on, eat a corn dog, catch
some fireworks, and hug his date close as they reach for the
stars. |
Coney Island, once one
of the premier vacation spots on the East Coast and the
forerunner to today’s Disneyland and other big amusement
parks, is no doubt much reduced from its former glory. At
the beginning of the 20th century, Steeplechase Park, Luna
Park, and Dreamland dominated the shoreline, offering anyone
with a few pennies the chance to be dazzled and amazed.
With attractions like the Trip to the Moon, the Japanese
Garden, the Steeplechase mechanical horse race, Fire and
Flames (a staged building fire, with firemen rushing to
the rescue), a simulated eruption of Mount Vesuvius, the
Canals of Venice ride, and Bostock’s Circus, Coney
Island was a cultural and technological wonder.
Today’s Coney still has rides
by way of Astroland and Deno’s Wonder Wheel Park,
and a stroll along the boardwalk shows a packed beach faced
by concession stands and bars. There are go-carts, batting
cages, minigolf, a unique Ferris wheel known as the Wonder
Wheel, and a variety of other classic amusement park rides,
all kissed by the breeze off of the seashore. And, of course,
there’s always the world famous Cyclone. This tooth
chattering, heart pounding New York landmark has been making
people scream since 1927, and the fact that it’s still
running is part of its scary charm. But Coney has more to
offer besides the obvious. Whether you’re looking
for wholesome fun with the in-laws or delicious decadence
with that around-the-way girl, Coney’s got something
for you.
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The New
York Aquarium is open year-round, and offers a peek into
the world that lies just beyond the shoreline. With over
8,000 animals on display from oceans around the world, it’s
easy to lose the day wandering past the tanks, marveling
at the diversity and beauty of life on our planet. With
daily demonstrations and feedings for the public’s
enjoyment, events like the Aquanights jazz concert series,
the Sea Monsters Weekend Halloween celebration, and educational
programs for the whole family, the Aquarium is sure to delight
anyone and everyone. Great as a date spot or for a family
outing, it’s truly one of the gems of New York City. |
Down Surf Avenue, just five minutes from the Aquarium and right
in the midst of the amusement park action is the Coney Island
Museum. Dedicated to the history and legacy of Coney, the Museum
serves as an education and preservation center. It’s also
available for tourist information and walking tours of the area.
There are exhibits featuring relics from antique rides, art inspired
by and dedicated to Coney Island, and other classic Coney memorabilia.
A lecture series covers a variety of Coney-related topics, from
the history of competitive eating to growing up in the neighborhood.
In addition, the Museum hosts a Saturday night film series. Cheesy
monster and B-movies are shown, often along with some kind of
live entertainment, and free popcorn and punch is available to
the attendees. I recently went to see Svengali, the 1931 John
Barrymore film about a sinister hypnotist who gains control over
a young woman, and a performance by Mr. Dead Guy, the ventriloquist
with the heart of mold. For five dollars, I couldn’t have
asked for a better time.
| Just around the corner you’ll
find Sideshows by the Seashore, which keeps alive the unique
tradition of carnival sideshows. Performers like Insectavora,
Eak the Geek, and Diamond Donny V astound audiences with fire-eating,
sword swallowing, contortionism, illusions and other traditional
sideshow acts. There’s even a Sideshow School, where
you too can learn how to flabbergast your friends by walking
on glass and nailing a spike into your face. Friday nights
are dedicated to burlesque and vaudeville shows by some of
the top performers around town, like The World Famous Pontani
Sisters, Jo Boobs, The Bindlestiff Family Circus and The Bombshell
Girls. As the Coney Island USA website puts it, “It’s
fireworks after the fireworks.” |
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The Coney Island Film Festival, which runs from September 30th to
October 2nd is held every fall and presents movies in all genres
and formats. Described as “diverse” and “unpredictable”,
the festival is sure to run surprising and hilarious films that
you wouldn’t be able to catch otherwise. As Barry Strugatz,
an independent filmmaker, commented, “The Coney Island Film
Festival has everything that Cannes has, plus Nathan's hot dogs."
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Bjork @ Keyspan
Park- August 23, 2003 |
KeySpan Park, which opened in 2001, is the home of the minor
league baseball team the Brooklyn Cyclones. Besides having games
throughout the summer, KeySpan Park also hosts concerts and other
events. Def Leppard and Bryan Adams performed there on Saturday
the 9th, and the White Stripes have a show coming up in September.
With views of the rides and the sea, KeySpan Park is unique among
the city’s sports arenas.
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A special treat on Friday
nights during the summer is the fireworks display. Brought
to you by Astroland, Deno’s Wonder Wheel Park, and
KeySpan Park, the fireworks are shot off right in front
of Astroland. Prime viewing space is on the boardwalk, and
it’s really nice to hold your loved one close as the
lights play overhead. The fireworks certainly add a touch
of wonder to the evening, and it’s a great way to
kick off a date. The display starts at 9:30 and runs throughout
the summer.
Let’s not forget the Mermaid
Parade, a self-styled “art parade”
which pays homage to the Mardi Gras celebrations held there
between 1903 and 1954. Founded in 1983, the bacchanal attracts
participants from around the country sporting homemade costumes
of mermaids, Neptunes, sea monsters, and other nautically
themed creations. The procession also includes motorized
floats, marching bands and antique cars. A King and Queen
head up the parade each year, and past participants include
David Byrne, Queen Latifah, Ron Kuby, Curtis Sliwa, Moby
and Theo. The day is wrapped up with the Mermaid Parade
Ball, where all the participants and spectators can mingle
and get down to live music after a day of fun and frolic.
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| Lastly, the Siren Music
Festival, coming this Saturday, July 16th, is an all day outdoor
music festival that features some of the best indie/ underground
bands around. Sponsored by the Village Voice, it’s the
fifth year that the Siren Festival has brought music to the
masses. Previous years have seen Trail of Dead, Sleater-Kinney,
Guided By Voices, Peaches, Yeah Yeah Yeahs, The Dirtbombs,
Modest Mouse, and Mission of Burma, and this year promises
to be no less stellar. Not only will you see Spoon, Brendan
Benson, VHS or Beta, Ambulance LTD and more, but the whole
shebang is free. That’s right, free. You’ll only
pay for that nasty sunburn you’ll get because you forgot
the sunscreen. |
Death Cab For Cutie @ Siren 2004
(Photo Shaune McDowell) |
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On a recent visit, someone
described Coney Island to me as “seedy”. And it
is, in its own charming, loopy way. The whole Coney Island
experience is infused by the carnival atmosphere and a feeling
of lost grandeur. The neighborhood suffered a downturn in
recent decades, but has been bouncing back due to the city’s
recent investments. As at least two development corporations
have recently been scoping out the area, much of what is today’s
Coney may disappear. |
While there’s no argument that an influx of cash would
do the neighborhood wonders, it would be a real pity if Coney
Island became another generic corporate megamall ala Times Square.
This outpost of classic American entertainment may not be around
much longer, so do your best to get down to the boardwalk, play
a little Shoot the Freak, catch a movie and maybe the fireworks,
too. Coney Island is more than just sun, sand, and The Warriors.
If you want information on the Coney Island Museum, the Mermaid
Parade, the Film Festival, or any other events, visit the Coney
Island USA website at www.coneyisland.com.
For more on the Siren Festival, go to
www.villagevoice.com/siren,
for the complete lineup, location, and show times. For more on
the Aquarium, visit http://nyaquarium.com/nyahome
and the Cyclones website is at www.brooklyncyclones.com. To reach
Coney Island, take the D, Q, N or F subway lines to Stillwell
Avenue.
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